Saturday, April 24, 2010

Web Resources For Children - Dogs and Kids

In previous posts about children and dogs it’s been mentioned that it is ideal for your children to learn as much as they can about dogs and how to treat them respectfully and be safe without necessarily doing it hands on with a dog (for both the child’s and the dogs sake). One option for engaging and educating children is the use of games, puzzles and other activities. There are a range of these available on the web (of varying quality) but here are just a few to start with.

Here are some of the web resources available to help children to learn more about dogs, and have some fun at the same time.
  • The UK Kennel Club has a site for children including Sasha’s 20 Paw Plan for Safety (http://www2.the-kennel-club.org.uk/web_portal/ ) which can then lead to testing your child’s knowledge through the Safe and Sound Safety Factor Challenge (http://www2.the-kennel-club.org.uk/safeandsound.html ). In this game primary age children get to make decisions in about 10 different scenarios. Their decisions earn them bite marks or safety stars. If they can get through with no bite marks then they can print of a certificate.
     
  • The Queensland (QLD) Government has a website called ‘Kids Help An Animal Smile’ (http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/animalwelfare/11594.html ) which includes all sorts of crosswords, posters, games, animal care tips and more. Check out the caring for Dougal Dog Quiz under the games link. It has three levels of play to select from and a wide range of questions testing your child’s (and your) knowledge of dogs and their care.
     
  • The Victorian Government has a Responsible Pet Ownership website for primary schools with lots of information, activities and games. Check out http://www.pets.dpi.vic.gov.au/01/main.htm .
     
  •  RSPCA Australia has a World of Animal Welfare site at http://www.woaw.org.au/ with lots of animal related information and activities.
     
  • You can also check out The Frontline Flea Run game at http://www.petalia.com.au/kidz_korner/flearun.swf where you get to chase pesky fleas with Frontline pipettes – well at the very least it will teach computing skills and timing : )
Other sites that might be of interest to you and your child include:
And of course the National Geographic website (http://kids.nationalgeographic.com/ ).

Of course parents should check out the sites for suitability before letting their children spend time there – as with any website.

Is Your Dog Too Fat, Too Thin Or Just Right?

Each dog is an individual and even dogs from the same litter can differ greatly in their adult size and nutritional needs. You can’t rely on breed standards and books because they give standards, averages or ranges – there is no ideal weight chart that suits all dogs. So how do you tell if your dog is too fat, too thin or just right?

Some approaches for determining whether your dog is the right size or not are:
Or you can combine both into a process that Waltham has flowcharted for you at http://www.ukfssartdogteams.org.uk/weight_check.htm.



Here are three graphics from the http://www.longliveyourdog.com/twoplus/RateYourDog.aspx website that give you a quick visual overview of the key points you will find in the other more detailed condition charts. You can find more about the 14 year Purina life span study from the same site. The key findings being:
  • Lean dogs generally appear to live longer than other dogs (measured in years).
  • The need for treatment for certain health conditions can be delayed by years in lean dogs.
  • Lean dogs appear to delay the loss of body mass as they age.
  • Lean dogs appear to have fewer visible signs normally associated with aging, such as greying muzzles.
For a more detailed look at the research and its results check out:


Final note

If you are at all uncertain or concerned about your dogs weight or your dog comes in as underweight or overweight please speak to your vet.

References (in addition to links included in post)


Bloat - A Killer - Be Aware

This is a very personal topic for me having come within minutes of losing my beloved Merlin to bloat in June 2008. Thankfully I was home with him when it started. Thankfully our vet is just 10 minutes away. Thankfully it was before they closed for the night (just). Thankfully they are a vet hospital and thankfully they decided to operate on him right there and then rather than transport him to the after hours emergency centre.

Given some recent posts and questions on a range of forums I thought I’d review what we appear to know about bloat. What is presented here is based on publicly available information only. It really all just confirms for me the need to talk to your vet about this killer and what you can do to reduce the risks with your dogs.

What is bloat?

Bloat is a life-threatening condition. A large number of dogs die of it every year in a painful and horrible death. Some stats indicate that even with immediate treatment 15% to 60% of dogs will die. The Purdue study indicated a mortality rate of approximately 30%. My personal experience though is out of ten or more dogs that I have known or heard of having GDV my boy is the only one I know of who has survived.

Bloat is the most commonly known name for a condition also known as gastric dilation, gastric torsion and twisted stomach. The correct medical term is Gastric Dilatation andVolvulus (GDV). It happens when an accumulation of gases, air, fluid or food in the stomach causes it to first dilate and then to twist, sealing off the entry and exit to the stomach, causing the spleen to swell an placing pressure (if not cutting off) the major vein that brings blood from the lower body back to the heart. Toxins are then released from the dying stomach lining and heart dysfunction can occur. All of this happens quickly over just minutes to hours so timely treatment is critical.

Unfortunately I have known a number of people lose their dogs while down the shops, while dogs were home alone during the day or when sleeping in runs and kennels outdoors overnight.

What causes bloat?

The exact cause or causes of bloat remain unknown. Be aware though that bloat can affect any dog of any age, size, weight or breed.

A number of risk factors have been identified including:

  • Body shape
    • Deep and narrow chests or abdomen.
        
  • Breed (although it is actually about their conformation – deep chests)
    • Risk factors are higher for dogs whose chests are long (from backbone to sternum) rather than wide – including mixed breed dogs.
    • Research by the University of Purdue, which of course did not cover all breeds, showed:
      • The highest average lifetime risk of an occurrence of GDV appears to be the Great Dane at 41.4% more likely than a mixed breed dog.
      • The rest of the list looks like:
        • Saint Bernard – 21.8%
        • Weimaraner – 19.3%
        • Irish Setter – 14.2%
        • Gordon Setter – 12.3%
        • Standard Poodle 8.8%
        • Basset Hound 5.9%
        • Doberman Pinscher – 5.5%
        • Old English Sheepdog – 4.8%
        • German Shorthaired Pointer – 4.6%
        • Newfoundland – 4.4%
        • German Shepherd Dog – 4.2%
        • Airedale Terrier – 4.1%
        • Alaskan Malamute - 4.1%
        • Chesapeake Bay Retriever – 3.7%
        • Boxer – 3.7%
        • Collie – 2.8%
        • Labrador Retriever – 2%
        • English Springer Spaniel – 2%
        • Samoyed – 1.6%
        • Dachshund – 1.6%
        • Golden Retriever – 1.2%
        • Rottweiler – 1.1%
        • Mixed breed – 1.0%
        • Miniature Poodle – 0.3%
           
  • Genetic predisposition
    • Having a first-degree (generation) relative with a history of GDV increases risk by 63%. So if you are a breeder of a susceptible breed (or mixed breed) then please consider not breeding from any dog that has suffered a GDV incident.
       
  • Sex
    • Males are more at risk than females (some say a slightly higher risk others indicate double the risk for males).
       
  • Age
    • More often seen in middle age to older dogs – some even report that few dogs under 1 year of age appear to be effected; others indicate that they have had youngsters suffer from GDV.
    • Research indicates that large breeds risks increase by 20% each year after the age of 5 while giant breeds risks increase by 20% each year after the age of 3.
       
  • Weight
    • Thin dogs are more at risk than overweight dogs (but of course overweight dogs are not healthy in other ways).
       
  • Health problems
    • Experiencing a major health problem before age 1
       
  • Temperament
    • Fearful temperament
    • Nervous temperament
    • Aggressive temperament
       
  • Feeding
    • Eating only one meal a day
    • Feeding only dry dog food, particularly if:
      • Fat was listed amongst the first four ingredients (some research indicates a 170% increase in risk others question the research)
      • More than one corn ingredient is listed among the first four ingredients (although only a minor risk increase for this one)
      • Foods with citric acid are moistened (some research indicates a 320% increase in risk – others question the research).
    • Feeding food with only small particles
    • Feeding a large volume of food per meal
    • Moistening dry food before feeding (something that is widely thought to reduce risk but which Purdue’s research shows increases it)
    • Eating rapidly (some research say increases risks by 15% which it is proposed may be linked to increased swallowing of air)
    • Eating from a raised feeding bowl (also something that is widely thought to reduce risk but with Purdue showed increases it by 110%)
       
  • Water intake
    • Restricting a dog’s water intake before and after eating (identified by Purdue)
    • Over drinking (identified by others)
    • Purdue indicated that giving water from a raised bowl also increased risks by up to 110%
       
  • Exercise
    • Increased physical activity before and after eating
       
  • Stress
    • May include recent kenneling or a recent long car ride
       
  • Trauma
     
  • Abnormal gastric motility
     
  • Hormone secretion.
     
  • Atmospheric pressure and changes.
What are some of the symptoms of bloat?

If your dog develops bloat you may see:

  • Pacing and restlessness
  • Head turning to look at the abdomen
  • A distended abdomen (looking something like your dog is pregnant or being pumped up with air) – often starting with the left side of the abdomen first
  • Stiff legged stance with arched back
  • Unsuccessful belching or vomiting or vomiting up white froth
  • Retching
  • Weakness
  • Excessive salivation (drooling)
  • Shortness of breath
  • Pale gums
  • Rapid shallow breathing
  • Rapid heartbeat
  • Acting uncomfortable, unwilling to move around
  • Collapse.
What should I do?

If you even suspect that your dog has bloat get your dog to a vet immediately. Time is critical with this condition – so it is far better to be wrong and cop a vet bill then to be right but too late (and possibly copping an even larger vet bill for surgery and critical care).
 
How is it treated?
 
Treatment will depend on your dog’s condition but often includes:

  • Trying to pass a gastric tube into the stomach to release gas etc. This is sometimes also used as part of the confirmation (or other) that the dog is suffering from GDV. If they can’t get a gastric tube in then something is almost certainly wrong and further investigation is warranted.
  • Using a large gauge needle to release gases from the stomach.
  • Taking an x-ray of the abdomen to check the stomach’s position – Note: This is highly recommended even if a gastric tube or needle have been successfully used to release gas etc.
  • Intravenous fluids to reduce shock.
  • Blood work to check for abnormalities.
  • Heart monitoring.
  • Emergency surgery to relieve the pressure and untwist the stomach. In some cases damaged parts of the stomach and spleen will have to be removed.
Intensive (and costly) post-operative monitoring for several days is routine.

As you can see this is a serious condition and surgery is highly risky – but often the only alternative to certain death.

Unfortunately research has shown that it is possible for vets to miss or misdiagnose GDV. So if you suspect your dog has GDV, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV or at the very least keep an eye on your dog and if the symptoms increase or do not reduce be persistent and return to your vets or seek another opinion. Don’t mean to scare you – but the research shows it happens.

Many vets will recommend permanently attaching the stomach to the side of the abdomen with stitches in an attempt to prevent future episodes, either during the emergency surgery or even if the situation is resolved before emergency surgery is required. Some sources quote stats of 75% - 100% of dogs who survive GDV having recurrences unless this surgery is conducted, after which recurrence is drastically reduced (to less than 5% according to the Purdue study).

Can it be prevented?

Unfortunately you cannot guarantee that a dog will not suffer GDV. There are however a number of things that it appears can be done to lower the risks. Some are management and care issues, others are medical. Research primarily at Purdue University by Dr. Larry Glickman, VMD, Ph.D, (an AKC Excellence in Canine Research Award winner), and Dr. Malathi Raghavan, DVM, Ph.D. have particularly contributed to this list.

  • Meals
    • Feed several small meals rather than one or two large meals throughout the day
    • Feed no more than one cup per 33 pounds of body weight per meal when feeding two meals a day
    • Feed an energy-dense diet, to reduce volume, but avoid a diet where a high amount of calories are from fats.
    • Feed a food with larger particles, and include larger pieces of meat to the diet.
    • Avoid moistening dry foods
    • Feed products with protein ingredients of animal origin, including beef, poultry, lamb and fish amongst the first four ingredients (the more of these listed among the first four ingredients the better). The Purdue University research indicated that this decreased risk by 53%
    •  Feed a variety of different food types regularly. The inclusion of human foods in a primarily dry dog food diet was associated with a 59% decreased risk of GDV while inclusion of canned pet foods was associated with a 28% decreased risk
       
  • Feeding bowls
    • Avoid feeding from a raised bowl unless advised to do so by your vet
       
  • Speed of feeding
    • If your dog eats rapidly, find ways to try to reduce his speed of eating. These might include:
      • Feeding on a baking tray or other flat surface
      • Use of specially designed bowls or adding a largish ball, rock or block into a standard bowl
      • Feeding dogs separately (to avoid them gulping down their food)
         
  • Drinking
    • Encourage normal water consumption – have water available at all times. Note though that some question the correlation between intake of water and incidence of GDV
       
  • Weight
    • Maintain an appropriate weight
       
  • Exercise
    • Avoid rigorous exercise before and after meals – up to 1 hour before and 2 hours after. Again some question the correlation.
       
  • Stress
    • Try to minimize stress for your dog. Stressful events have been reported to be precipitating factors in GDV occurrence. Some stressful events particularly mentioned are boarding, traveling, showing, breeding, and trailing.
    • Avoid vigorous, excitement and stress up to 1 hour before and 2 hours after eating.
       
  • Monitoring
    • For high risk dogs or when risk factors are increased (such as stress) consider using a baby monitor to alert you if your dog is in distress.
       
  • Preparation
    • Have vet contact numbers and know the way there for 24 hour coverage. This means you might need to have after hours numbers or alternative vet hospital or emergency care centre details handy.
A few of the key areas where there is contradictory advice appear to be:

  • Feeding in a raised bowl or on a raised feed station
  • Amount of water that the dog should be allowed to drink immediately before or after eating
  • Making changes in diet slowly, over a period of a week or more or feeding a varied diet at all times.
  • Anti-flatulence treatments – some recommend it and others believe that it increases the risks of GDV.
So this merely reinforces the importance of talking to your vet!

A recent discussion with my vet reinforced that we really don’t yet know the specific causes and that it can even happen from just gulping down too much air. A friend then lost a dog that bloated on water. We have a long way to go in really understanding GDV – so all we dog owners (and vets) can do is work with the information we do have and be willing to change (or at least consider changing) as new information comes to light.

If you have a high-risk breed then you might want to talk to your vet about performing a gastropexy during de-sexing or at another time. A gastropexy is where they attach the stomach to the abdomen making it harder (if not impossible) for the stomach to twist.

References:

Friday, April 23, 2010

Realistic Expectations of Kids and Dogs


People focus a lot on the behaviour that they expect from their dog, or dogs, around children but how about taking a look at what is reasonable to expect from the children themselves. Having seen some stunning examples of great dog training (and on occasion parent training) from some very young children and some stunningly bad examples of kids and dogs in risky situations I wondered just what we should be expecting from that ‘average’ child at each stage of their development. Here’s what I found…and while some of it might sound like common sense – it doesn’t seem that common.

Birth to three years

These children:

  • Require constant supervision when around dogs.
  • Do not understand that what they do to a dog causes pain or might cause aggression – they don’t yet really understand that anyone other than themselves has feelings or thoughts at all.
  • Can be harmed by even friendly interactions.
  • Obviously cannot be expected to help care for or actively participate in training a dog.
Your focus here should be in protecting your baby (and dog) at first. Then as the child develops into a toddler they are also likely to develop a fascination with the dog/s – which may or may not be reciprocated. You toddler may be poking, pushing and prodding the dog – but it is likely to really be an attempt to learn about the animal. Start using touch and feel books and stuffed toys etc before you try and teach your youngster to touch dogs appropriately and gently. Be aware that they can have difficulty telling the difference between living beings and inanimate objects such as stuffed toys – it’s up to you to teach them.

At about 2 you might consider getting your child to help put the dog’s toys away in one box and their toys in another. Alternatively you might want to teach your child to leave all dog toys alone – it’s up to you.

By 3 your child should be starting to understand and accept boundaries including a pet’s boundaries such as how far the child need to keep or not going onto a dog’s bed or into a dog’s crate.

Three to six years

These children are starting to take responsibility for themselves. They are becoming more independent and are willing to learn and interact with the world in a different way. With children this age you can consider:

  • Allocating one special task to the child so that he has and is rewarded for having an important role in caring for the dog (and yes – reward your children for behaviour you like just the way you do with your dog). Tasks may include filling water bowls from a jug or watering can (filled by an adult); some simple grooming tasks.
  • Working with your child as a partner in training particularly where your dog is already well trained. This gives the child some level of control over the dog and also gives them a sense of achievement that will be written all over their face.
Be warned that children at this stage in their development:

  • Are still cognitively immature and have some quite strange, illogical and entertaining (or frustrating) views of how the world works.
  •  Do not have a good grasp of cause and effect so cannot always predict what will happen next if they do something to or with a dog.
  • Have a limited attention span but an even more limited level of self control – many find it impossible to stand or sit still.
  • Are not particularly consistent in the way they do things – so if you are going to have them train with the dog ensure that you supervise, that the dog really knows the behaviour that the child is training and be ready to a) back up the childs cue with subtle cues from you and b) do some remedial work with the dog to maintain their consistency in regard to the cue – therefore come and other critical (even life saving) cues are not one’s I’d consider doing with a child this young.
  • Believe, really believe that the world is all about them so developing an understanding of others needs, including the dogs, is beneficial but also can be hard work.
Children this age learn a lot from modeling what they see adults and older children do – so beware this really is a case of having to have a good look at what sort of role models your child is mimicking. Demonstration is also a great method of showing the child what to do – what the dog does like in terms of touch for instance – and what they don’t like (but perhaps on a stuffie for this one).

Six to twelve years

Here taking on additional responsibilities successfully helps develop a positive self-concept. They start to really develop logic – understanding things like cause and effect and problem solving.

Here being responsible and being recognised and rewarded for it is very important in developing self confidence and a ‘give it a go’ or ‘I can do it’ attitude.

For these children being responsible for one or more aspect of pet care is a good start. From about 8 they can also increasingly become involved in training, including starting to train tricks and games – all with supervision of course.

A tip for parents and teachers is to use role play and questioning sessions to help the children develop an understanding of dog body language, feelings and needs and also the likely consequences of both dog behaviour and the child’s own behaviour. More on this in a future post.

You can set up family rules and contracts with children of this age if you are realistic, and if you stick with them too! Don’t forget to recognise and reward instances of people who actually stick with the rules.

You need to be really cautious about letting children take responsibility for walking a dog. They need to be able to physically and mentally control the dog and in times of high arousal when something unexpected and exciting or stressful happens. Otherwise you risk the child witnessing their dog come to untimely and unhappy end and blaming themselves – and by then it’s all just too late.
 
Some dog training schools will allow children at 8 years of age to participate in dog training classes (with parental supervision – and sometimes with the parent holding the lead).

Twelve +

These children are now developing more complex thinking skills including more complex hypothetical problems. They start to be able to think about options and different possible outcomes. This all means that they can really start to understand and apply (and even modify) basic training principles. With some coaching they can also become able to predict possible problems and redirect or address them before they occur.

Sometimes you need to remember that they are still basically children or adolescents and that you need to be realistic about expectations.

You might be surprised to learn that many teenagers actually rely on time alone with the dog so that they can download, talk and seek comfort from them in a way they often feel they can’t with humans. So if possible give them this space and special time.

Some dog training schools choose to restrict the minimum age of children in class to 12 years of age. This can also be a great age to get the child and dog involved in doggy sports such as flyball or agility (with appropriate supervision) as these can teach self control, focus and a lot of other really useful life skills to both dog and child.

So where do we end up?

Throughout growing up we learn about our dogs (and other animals) and how to treat them and embed some pretty deep convictions about their worth, their feelings and their role through:
  • Trial and error – trying something with the dog and learning from the response from the dog and from other people around you.
  • Observing other children and adults – particularly those you admire or have great affection for – in the way they interact with dogs.
  • Observing what your peer group expect and reward in terms of interactions (not always nice ones).
  • Being taught that the dog is a member of the family deserving of respect and consideration.
  • The media and all its realistic and misleading representations of animals and people’s interactions with them and value of them in our society.
  • Education experiences – zoo trips, farm visits, school and youth group education activities.
So be careful about what information’s going into your child’s education. More on some useful resources coming soon.
A warning

No matter how well socialised and trained your dog. No matter how well behaved your child. Put the two together and there is risk. No one can guarantee a dog to be ‘child-proof’. They are animals not robots. With both the dog and the child in the mix there are so many things that can go right – and others that can go wrong. So remember the rule – Supervise! Supervise! Supervise!

References:

Puppy Bite Inhibition And Its Importance - One Viewpoint


Those who read the post on puppy priorities will know that bite inhibition is right up there as a priority to teach puppies (basically because this is the time they are tuned to learn this lesson and it can prove impossible to teach them as adults).

Bite inhibition is not about teaching a dog not to bite (or at least not only about teaching them not to bite). Bite inhibition is where a dog does not bite even though it could easily do so, instead self limiting themselves to grasping or mouthing without causing damage. It’s a normal part of dog to dog play between socially adept dogs. It’s also a key part of establishing a safer dog to human relationship as a dog with bite inhibition towards humans is far less likely to actually inflict injury or even in some horrific circumstances cause far less injury then they have the potential to. So let’s take a look at both scenarios:

  • Bite inhibition dog to dog.
  • Bite inhibition dog to human.
While many trainers and other professionals will tell you to stop your puppy from putting their mouth on you immediately they start it seems that this can actually cause a problem – as can having a puppy that never puts its mouth on you in the first place. You need that puppy to apply teeth at some level in order to be able to teach them bite inhibition.

Not everyone will agree with the thinking, nor the approach taken here, but the more I learn the more it makes real sense to me. So read on and make of it what you will…

Dog to dog

Bite inhibition between dogs allows for dogs to have disagreements and fights to resolve conflict but minimise the damage caused, thereby allowing the social group to remain intact.

Puppies have needle-sharp teeth and weak jaws combined with a penchant for biting for a very specific reason – so that they will use their teeth frequently and learn how to control their bite. Puppies in a litter and later at puppy play school teach each other bite inhibition when they play fight – and this is reinforced by off leash interactions with appropriate adults who let the pup know what is and isn’t acceptable. So appropriate socialisation with appropriate puppies and dogs is a priority for your pup.

Dog to people

Why is it an issue and what are we trying to achieve?

Establishing bite inhibition towards people is critical for dogs to be able to live safely (as safely as an animal with teeth and claws can) alongside humans as our companions and family members. This particular behaviour can get you out of some particularly nasty situations. Take the following real life examples:

  • My boy Merlin (GSD) was a very mouthy puppy – just ask his vet : ) but this gave me lots of opportunity to help him learn bite inhibition to people – and it all paid off when he got to a couple of years old and was at the same vets for a limp. While pressing along his spine the vet obviously hit a very very sore spot and Merlin turned quickly and put his mouth fully and firmly around the vet’s arm and gave him a clear signal – that is enough – but only held it long enough to give the message and left no marks at all. The vet blessed his luck (or was that Merlin’s early training even though I was just bumbling along) as he figured many of his other patients would have shed his blood in a similar situation.
  • A woman in the US who accidentally stood on her lying Rottie as stepping down from a step so there was a lot of force and a stiletto actually went through the poor dogs leg – but he too curbed his natural reaction and while he turned and grasped the offending leg and held it did not so much as tear the woman’s stockings.
One approach to teaching bite inhibition

Instead of the well known approach of ceasing all contact or applying punishment/an aversive immediately a puppy’s teeth touch human skin, this approach takes 4 steps:

1. Teach no hard bites – progressively teach the pup to decrease the pressure he applies with his teeth and jaws.

2. Teach no pressure at all – so now mouthing (or gumming) is the only acceptable contact.

3. Teach that mouthing is okay until you say stop – and then it must stop.

4. Teach that mouths are not used on people or clothing attached to people without permission. That permission is only given in highly controlled exercises or games and rarely and only if you want to.

The idea is to teach the puppy to develop a soft mouth (inhibit the force of his bite) and then to inhibit the frequency of his gentler mouthing. Then when the inevitable happens and some poor dog gets such a fright or is in immense pain it is far more likely to inhibit its bite and while some damage may occur it will be far far less than the dog is inherently capable of.



To learn more about how to teach the steps check out:
To sum it up in Dr Ian Dunbar’s own words:

“When bite-inhibition is poor or non-existent, if and when the dog bites, in addition to the serious injury caused to the victim, invariably the dog loses his life and the owner loses their companion, their peace of mind and often, a lawsuit. However, when good bite inhibition has been firmly established in puppyhood, when the dog is provoked as an adult, he seldom causes harm and consequently, rehabilitation is comparatively easy and safe. Basically, bite inhibition is the dog's, owner's and victim's last line of defense.”

If you have a puppy – act now. The critical period for teaching these skills is until about 4 ½ months of age when they start turning into an adolescent and their teeth and jaw start strengthening.

But what if…?

There are a number of situations that make teaching bite inhibition harder including:

  • People who play many games with their puppy that incite them to such a level of arousal that play-biting and play-mouthing occur. In this case insist on rules and frequent breaks in the games to control arousal levels. See the previous post on teaching tug for an example of rules and arousal will be the subject of a future post.
  • Puppies who do not frequently mouth or bite and done not occasionally bite hard. This is serious stuff – in order to learn about bite inhibition the puppy must apply teeth and receive appropriate feedback. Get into off leash play sessions with other puppies and work on getting your puppy playing and aroused enough to apply teeth so that other puppies and you get the opportunity to teach him.
Happy to hear other views, experiences and questions.

DogStarDaily Website - Take A Look

Now a number of you will probably be heartily sick of my mentioning this website but no I’m not going to apologise and here’s why. This is the single best dog training website that I have found. It is full of very useful and practical advice and gives the views of many different contributors and encourages contributions (posts of photos, videos and comments) from the public. Yes like every information source there are times when I wish something hadn’t been posted or said – but these are extremely rare compared to other sources of information I find including books, brochures, magazines and DVDs.

So I decided to bite the bullet and give you the chance to see just what I mean in the first post of what will turn into a few about some of the best resources I’ve found. Feel free to add posts to the dog folder on resources you’ve found useful and why.

For instance if you were interested in housetraining for instance then on this one website you could find (as a minimum):
  • Articles on:
    • Puppy’s first week at home
    • Errorless Housetraining
    • Puppy Playroom and Doggy Den
        
  • Blogs including:
    • Blog of a new puppy owner (Jeff Silverman)
    • To crate or not to crate, and why (Valerie Pollard)
    • Why did he do it? (Ian Dunbar)
    • But I’ve tried everything! (Gillian Ridgeway)
    • It never happens…until it happens (Gillian Ridgeway)
    • Establishing dominance (Jerry Hope)
        
  • Handouts (Behaviour blueprints):
    • Housetraining
         
  • Radio episodes:
    • Loo logistics
    • Errorless Housetraining and Chewtoy Training
       
  • DogStarDaily Video clips
    • Housetraining from the original SIRIUS puppy training TV show and videos
    • Errorless Housetraining
    • Puppy Playpen for Housetraining
    • Housetraining a Puppy
    • Pee Before Walk 
    • Potty problems at the pub and associated consultation (from Training the Companion Dog DVD)
       
  • Home videos
    • Potty training puppies – the basics.
        
      One of the most awesome home videos I've ever seen is on the site - Housetraining is easy! An amazing video you should all watch – basenji puppies trained by their breeder to toilet on cue. It’s amazing! http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thickbox/3251/425/350/field_video_0 The person who trained these pups is a breeder - not a dog trainer (at least according to him - I think the evidence says he might not be a professional but he certainly has the skills)

DogStarDaily was established by Dr Ian Dunbar once he decided to retire from the international speaking circuit - that lasted only a couple of months – but the idea grew legs and continues to grow and expand almost daily. So what do you find at this website (http://www.dogstardaily.com/ ):

  • The Training Textbook which provides, and expands and updates information previously only available in the books ‘Before you get your puppy’, ‘After you get your puppy’ and ‘Teach a New Dog Old Tricks’ all by Ian. The topics include:
    •  Before you get your puppy
      • Your education about puppy education
      • Developmental priorities
      • Choosing your puppy
      • Shopping list
      • Raising a puppy
    • Puppy’s 1st week at home
    • Puppy’s 1st month at home
    • Puppy outside the home
    • Basic manners and obedience
      • Basic manners
      • Lure/Reward training
      • Food critics
    • Puppy training
    • Adolescent dog training
    • Adult dog training
    • Dog behaviour problems
    • Dog behaviour and play
    • K9 Games
    • Other articles
As well as the text and photos you can often get PDF printouts of relevant pages from the books or handouts and to the right of the page you will often find related video clips.

  • The Dog Blog which features blogs from scientists (like Dr Roger Abrantes), Veterinarians (like Dr Nicholas H. Dodman, Dr Jon Klingborg and Ian himself), Veterinary Behaviourists, owners of dog training and daycare facilities, rescue groups, many professional dog trainers and published authors including Suzanne Clothier, Trish King, Patricia McConnell, Sarah Whitehead, Nicole Wilde and others. 
     
  • IWoofs Radio which is now in it’s third season and includes downloads of episodes that vary from 30 mins to 60 mins in length. They touch on all sorts of topics about getting, managing, training and living with puppies and dogs. For instance there is an episode called ‘Peaceful Paradise or Wild Kingdom’ which deals with issues associated with living with multiple dogs, including aggression between dogs in the family situation. Another talks about resource guarding and yet another about living with an adolescent.
     
  • DSD TV provides you with access to short video clips (available on sets of his commercial CD’s) and from various TV shows and sponsored advertisements. There are also home videos that people have posted themselves – and Ian’s currently working on projects to add more about training adult dogs (I’ve seen some of the snippets at his talks in Australia last year and they look great).
     
  • Free downloads including:
    • Electronic copies of his books ‘Before You Get Your Puppy’ and ‘After You Get Your Puppy’ which started because the guy from the NSW Siberian Husky Rescue asked him if he could put these books on his website – and Ian and his family gave permission free of charge and then decided to also do it internationally.
    • Downloadable articles and fliers on various behaviours and how to deal with them.
Up to you – but I really recommend a visit. As with all information you need to decide what is right for you and your dog but I recommend this site unequivocally to all new puppy and dog owners.

Equipment - How To Use It And Then Lose It


It is one thing to choose to use a piece of equipment, say a head halter, a harness or a Citronella collar, and keep it on their dog even after the problem is solved. It is another thing altogether to feel that you can't go back to your original equipment or move onto anything else - and of course it is a whole different world if the equipment just doesn't solve the problem (which it doesn't do if not used effectively - but that's not for this post). This post is about showing you tht if you set this up from the beginning you can use new equipment to get the desired result and then remove the equipment and go back to your normal equipment but with the problem resolved. So how do you do this?
Well Dr Ian Dunbar (guy who started the puppy class revolution and reinvigorated positive dog training techniques) has the following really great tip for when applying any new equipment to solve a problem when you then want to be able to remove the equipment and still have the problem resolved.

Step 1. Take the new equipment and get the dog used to wearing it in the situations where you are intending to use it. Keep the equipment on at that time for a week - eg. keep harness on while walking but only apply lead to the collar not the harness for that week. The idea is to stop your dog from associating the equipment with the solution - and therefore from them on only 'being good' when that equipment is used.

Step 2. Apply a new smell such as cleaning a leather collar with saddle soap or putting some lavender oil (or whatever) onto the dogs collar and immediately start using the new equipment. The idea is that the dog will go 'hey that's a new smell' and 'OMG I have to walk nicely when that new smell is there'. Do this for two weeks - renewing the smell as required.

Step 3. Keep the new equipment on the dog but do not activate it (eg. switch off the citronella sprayer or put the lead back on the collar) but keep the smell going. Keep the equipment on for a week.

Step 4. Remove the equipment but keep the smell up - until you can gradually fade it out too and still get the behaviour you want.

Cool isn't it! Now people who put on halters, harnesses and citronella collars don't have to use them for ever - which is what many many people end up doing because they just don't know how to stop the dog associating the new rules/punishment/correction (depending on what you are using and how) with the equipment and only behaving well when it is on the dog (and switched on for particularly brainy dogs).

Oh and it's perfectlly okay to choose to use head halters, harnesses etc permanently if that suits you and your dog and they are used safely.  This method just gives another option.

The Puppy License And Its Loss

Many pet owners are quite shocked to find that suddenly at about 4 ½ to 5 months of age adult dogs will appear to ‘turn’ on their cute and adorable puppy….it also comes as quite a surprise to the pup! So what’s probably going on here?

Puppies go through a particular period of socialisation between 3 to anywhere between 13 and 18 weeks of age (depending on who you listen to) during which they need to learn as much as they can about the world they are going to be living in and the people and other creatures that inhabit it. It’s also a critical period for learning about being a dog and what is and is not socially acceptable in dog communications and interactions. Future posts will delve into this critical period – there is just so much to share about the world of dogs : )

This period is critical for developing positive relationships with other dogs and development into a behaviourally healthy dog. Research shows that puppies who are isolated until 16 weeks of age are more likely to display fear in all sorts of situations and be the recipient of aggression from other pups and dogs. They generally seem unable to develop normal relationships with other dogs – it’s like they don’t learn the language through lack of experimentation and practice (otherwise often known as play). The scary thing is that when talking about isolation we’re not just talking about being locked in a solitary cage but also any other means of restricting the pups experience of the world so puppies that don’t get to socialise and play with other dogs of all ages (and sizes, shapes and colours), puppies that are raised in sub-standard breeding arrangements and highly sterilised and sterile kennels and pups that spend time in a pet shop window or just locked into a back yard or laundry. All of these can lead to a wide range of potential issues with a pup and its development but the focus of this post is specifically dog-to-dog social development and the end of this special development period.

Puppies up to 4 ½ to 5 months of age appear to have something called a ‘puppy license’ – something that allows them to be an absolute pest to older dogs without repercussion. You see puppies being down right rude in dog terms doing things like jumping on older dogs, stealing food and toys from adults, barking right in the face of an adult or worse still humping them – and the adults just seem to put up with it, and even expect it – at least well socialised dogs do (dogs with good dog communication and social skills).

However at about this age the license expires as the puppies hormone levels change and they develop psychologically. Adult dogs now start to insist on the puppy controlling their behaviour and being more respectful in their interactions – and this comes as a shock to many puppies who ignore the more subtle signs until an adult dog (maybe their best pal at home, a friend at the park or a total stranger) snaps back – figuratively and sometimes literally. The adult dogs might:
  • Bark (roar) at an adolescent displaying inappropriate behaviour.
  • Plant the adolescent’s face into the dirt with a well placed paw (something my boy was doing to other younger and over the top puppies at only 12 weeks of age – and which caused some distress until I figured out what was going on).
  • Knock the adolescent with their muzzle or mouth.
  • Snap at them.
The messages might be relatively peaceful and quick or they might appear and sound like a major scuffle if not full out fight – and the adolescent will generally be doing the majority of the screaming. But if there are no wounds then do not panic – now or the next time you see or meet this adult dog or any adult dog, or your adolescent will pick up this fear from you and act on it. This does not mean that you should put up with inappropriately socialised/skilled adult dogs or other adolescents bullying and picking on or terrifying your pup – so if you are concerned, if blood is drawn or punctures made or your dog seems to be being bullied or is bullying others then seek professional help.

Adults will also tend to self-handicap themselves less and instead play with more of their cunning, strength and brute power – now they might knock the adolescent over, pin them or stand over them. Any of these can cause the adolescent to scream or run from the scene giving high pitched yelps that cause us humans concern and often end in sanctions for the adult so that the conversation between adolescent and adult dog is not completed but rather interrupted by us with the adolescent getting off lightly – and sadly not learning the lesson as quickly as they would have if these interactions were monitored but only intervened in when either dog is in likely physical danger. The adult dog is also more likely to then try to get in and teach this cocky adolescent a lesson more quickly next time, therefore escalating the situation needlessly. If the adult dog gets the blame and is therefore removed from the dog park, class or home needlessly, removing a well socialised dog with clear communication skills from the social group and therefore reducing the number of well socialised dogs that other puppies, adolescents and dogs are likely to come across and learn from.

It is critical that the adolescent dog gains experience with adult dogs and learns to control himself, communicate clearly and interact in a socially acceptable way. Without this experience the pup grows to become an under-socialised dog – one that is likely to attract or cause altercations in the playground (park, footpath or any where else they meet or come within sight of another dog). If as an owner of a pup you get to the point of considering stopping dog contact please call for professional assistance immediately rather than socially isolating your pup – and if you’re not happy with the answers and approach you get keep looking. It appears virtually impossible or at least very hard work and a long term project to make up for the lack of this experience when the brain, body and psychology of the pup are programmed (ready) for it after the event (in later life).

It seems that male pups are particularly prone to being put in their place. It’s almost like they are suddenly wearing a sign on their back that says ‘kick me’ – and they are but the sign is six foot high and flashing red – it’s a surge in testosterone that every dog in the area can recognise much more easily than any sign and it seems to say ‘put me in my place before I get out of hand – I’m super male!’ Male testosterone levels start to rise by 4 to 5 months of age and reach their maximum at about 10 months of age before falling back to their normal adult levels at about 18 months of age. An adolescent male pup can have levels that are 5 to 7 times greater than adult levels, so you can understand your male pup is under extreme hormone attack (far more than any teenage male human) and that this can be a difficult time for them and therefore you – but one that you can both live through, particularly if you have some understanding of what is going on.

As puppies, both male and female, approach adolescence, they may be continually harassed by adult dogs – sometimes so subtly that you might miss the signals from the adult dog but should see a change of attitude in your growing furball. Adult male dogs will often target in on the adolescent male and make his life quite stressful. Luckily this particular phase is usually short as the pup quickly learns what is acceptable – showing active and exaggerated appeasement signals to adults.

While I might have made this change over period sound particularly scary you need to remember that this is about puppies learning how to control themselves and behave more politely and this takes time and experience. The adult dog’s role is to help the adolescent learn the social rules of interaction and while they will be forgiven mistakes at the beginning they are expected to get with the program pretty quickly as they gain more experience – and letting them have that experience with safe and well socialised/adept dogs is our role in this piece of their development. It’s VERY important that pups learn to talk “dog” and interact with dogs of all kinds and ages so that he or she can become a great communicator, peacekeeper and teacher of future generations as well as the life of the party.

What are your experiences with the puppy license and what your puppy managed to get away with?

What are your experiences with the change that occurs at the expiration of that license?

References

Also check out:

Tug Away - It's Okay To Play

Should you play tug with your dog or not? Over the years there has been different, and usually contradictory, advice given. Well it seems that we now have some clarity and some research on the issue. So let’s take a fresh look at the game of tug…

Why the difference of opinion?

There have been a number of reasons why trainers, vets, behaviourists and others have cautioned owners against playing tug with their dogs. Some of the reasons include:
  • The game pits you against your dog.
  • If your dog wins then they will think that they can beat you in a battle of strength or wills.
  • The game sets many dogs up to quickly get to a level of arousal that is over the top and potentially dangerous.
  • Fingers and hands are at risk of being bitten.
  • The game teaches dogs to use the full force of their teeth around people.
  • Playing tug makes dogs aggressive.
  • It can make them possessive of the toy.
  • It teaches them to tug on other things you don’t want.
  • It can physically damage both your spine and your dog’s neck and spine.
Sure there is a grain of truth in many of these but there are also simple precautions that you take to ensure that they don’t occur or are minimised – and let’s face it nothing in life is risk free (not even doing nothing).

The benefits of tug

Playing tug has benefits for both of you including its role as:

  • A great way to exercise without needing much space or time and that can be done indoors or out.
  • A good way to help dogs let off steam/ excess energy quickly.
  • An awesome reward for good training or other performances.
  • A great and fun way of teaching your dog self control.
  • A way to redirect mouthy dogs teeth to an appropriate object.
So how should you play tug?

Here’s what the literature has to say about playing tug safely with your dog:

  • Establish and stick to the rules of the game –
    • The dog must only take the toy when told to – you need to teach him about this rule before playing.
    • They must give it up when asked – again teach him about this rule before playing.
    • They must not get so excited that they lose control – this is something you need to monitor and you can do this by short bursts of tug and then asking the dog to give up the toy and/or sit or drop – and then rewarding them for complying by playing again.
    • No teeth on skin or clothes – if this happens (even inadvertently) then say ouch and immediately end the session for a period.
    • Tug is only acceptable with the nominated tug toy/s ad/or when given the specific cue – consistency in the rules above should help you here as will having designated tug toys that are put away after each session.
  •  Let the dog do the tugging and shaking – Don’t jerk his head back and forwards and up and down that’s a sure way to develop neck problems) instead pull straight back
  • Do not let your dog hang from his teeth – at least his hind feet should always be in contact with the ground.
  • People who cannot play by the rules do not play this game.
  • If your dog is aggressive or domineering then find another more cooperative game to play.
  • Nip unacceptable behaviours in the bud by immediately stopping the game.
Other advice

  • It’s also been said that it’s okay to play tug as long as you win every time. Well research by Rooney and Bradshaw seems to show that there is no correlation between dogs winning games of tug and the relative status of the human-dog pair. However:
    • It was found that the most playful dogs can be very pushy with their owners if they are left with the toy at the end of the play session – so I recommend that you take the toy away at the end of the session. This also makes it a more valuable toy because it is for special time only and should help maintain your dog’s interest in the game.
    • I also recommend that while you let your dog win some games – you make sure you win some too, possibly even most of them. You both need to want to play the game and losing all the time isn’t fun for anyone.
       
  • The best tug toys:
    • Are long ones – long enough to keep your hand away from those teeth.
    • Made of a substance that invites your dog to grab and hold but won’t cause damage.
    • Are sturdy enough to withstand significant abuse.
    • Are comfortable and easy for you to maintain a grip on.
       
  • Tug may not be an appropriate game for your children to play with your dog. But if you decide to give it a go make sure that the same rules are strictly adhered to (and yes you will need to teach the dog to obey the rules with children too – and supervise, supervise, supervise).
Teaching the rules

  • One way to teach take it and give involves:
    • Selecting a toy that your dog enjoys. Say the cue you want to use ‘take it’ for instance and quickly and playfully hand the toy to your dog.
    • Don’t expect him to hold it for long – maybe just a few seconds (you should know how attached your dog is to it) so be ready to say the cue you want to use for them to give up the toy (‘mine’ or ‘drop’ for instance) and immediately show them a treat so that they drop the toy into your waiting hand.
    • Repeat over a number of training sessions – keeping sessions short and fun. You should be able to gradually increase the length of time your dog is holding the toy before giving it to you and you should be able to remove the treat waved under their nose and just bring it out when they have dropped the toy as a reward.
    • Now you can start asking for your dog to take and give different toys and also start weaning off the food rewards by playing with them sometimes, treats sometimes and sometimes throwing the toy for them to chase and/or fetch.
                If you need to you can start with your dog on leash – and of course you’re starting in a quiet area
                without too many distractions as that’s always the best place to learn something new.

But my dog doesn’t like tug

  • It seems that most dogs are almost obsessed with tug or have no interest. Very few seem to sit in the middle. You can choose to try and teach him to tug or you can move onto another game he enjoys more – remember this is meant to be fun for you both.
  • You might be able to teach him to pull and enjoy it by:
    • Getting out a new toy and playing with it where your dog can see you but not letting them play with it (not for too long as this then becomes teasing) and then noticeably put the toy away somewhere safe they can’t see it.
    • Later or the next day repeat and keep repeating until your dog shows great interest in what you are up to and is really wanting to play with the toy.
    • Then you can bring the toy out and use it to really rev up your dog so that they are just salivating to get at it (remember safety though so don’t go too over the top or you might get bitten). This is often achieved by waving and flicking the toy across the floor and up in the air and tantalisingly just out of reach and then letting the dog make contact (any contact) – then go over the top with praise, being a real cheerleader and making a fuss. If they maintain contact try pulling slightly against them and see if they maintain their pressure and start to tug. If so you might want to put a cue to this like ‘pull’ or ‘tug’ so that you can use it to get games started.
    • If he does pull but without a great deal of enthusiasm then you can become a cheerleader and become more and more excited when he does even the slightest pull and then as he pulls harder. You might feel and look like a bit of a fool at first – but you’re entertaining your dog, yourself and possibly the neighbourhood all in one : )
References

  • Amy Ammen and Kitty Foth-Regner – Hip Ideas for Hyper Dogs
  • D. Caroline Coile – Beyond Fetch. Fun, Interactive Activities for You and Your Dog.
  • Jean Donaldson – Dogs Are From Neptune
  • Karen B. London and Patricia B. McConnell – Play Together, Stay Together. Happy and Healthy Play Between People and Dogs
  • Kyra Sundance – 101 Dog Tricks. Step-by-Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
  • Manuela Zaitz – Trick School for Dogs. Fun Games to Challenge and Bond
  • Pat Miller – Play with Your Dog
To read Rooney and Bradshaw’s research visit http://www.psyeta.org/jaaws/full_articles/6.2/rooney.pdf

As always open to questions and/or suggestions.

Now I've found another great resource for teaching tug to dogs that don't seem to go for it naturally and for using tug to reinforce recall (come) for your dog.  Check out one of the Dina Zaphiras videos on DogStarDaily TV America's Dog Trainers at http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part-2-dina-zaphiris-%E2%80%93-behavior-savior.

Fleas - Pesky Fellows



With the time of year and persistent questions regarding fleas and their control I thought I'd check out a few references and learn more about the beasts and how to get rid of them. Here's what I learnt – and it’s more than you probably ever wanted to know…

About fleas
  • Fleas are parasites. They suck blood, make animals, especially puppies, anaemic, they spread tapeworm and cause serious skin irritations. Some dogs can also become allergic to fleas. They can bite humans as well.
  • Fleas can build up rapidly to plague-like proportions under the right conditions – something some of you seem to be experiencing : (
  • Adult fleas live & feed on your pet but 95% of the flea population live as eggs, larvae and pupae in the dirt, carpet, bedding and cracks and crevices, ready to jump on your pet.
  • With nearly 2,000 species and subspecies, fleas thrive in warm, humid environments.
  • The life cycle of a flea:
    • The female adult flea lives and lays eggs on your pet. The eggs fall off and remain protected in the dirt, cracks and crevices of your house, in pets bedding or in your carpet, where they hatch into larvae.
    • The larvae feed on debris and develop into pupae, which can lay dormant for a long time. They hatch into new adults under the right conditions, in as little as 19 days in warm and humid weather, and hop on your pet to feed. The adult flea can survive for up to a year without a blood meal.
    • With a complete life cycle ranging anywhere from 16 days to 21 months, depending on environmental conditions, fleas are most commonly found on a dog’s abdomen, the base of the tail and the head. With heavy infestations, however, fleas can thrive anywhere on the body. They feed once every day or two, and generally remain on their host during the interim.
    • A single female flea can produce up to 50 eggs per day and about 2,000 in a lifetime.
  • Larvae can be easily killed by drying out (exposure to relative humidity under 50 degrees) however they are capable as moving as far as a metre to find locations suitable for survival such as protected environments in carpet fibres, cracks between floorboards and on unfinished concrete floors.
  • Fleas are hearty and nimble, and when searching for a host, they can jump 10,000 times in a row (the length of three football fields). Three pairs of legs make for excellent leaping capabilities (up to two feet), and a laterally flattened body allows for quick movement in a dog’s fur.
  • A large build-up of fleas occurs when the weather gets warmer, especially in humid areas but we are still at risk in cooler areas because of heating in our homes.
Finding fleas

  • Often fleabites cause itching and scratching which can over time cause hair loss, inflammation and dry, scurfy skin over the base of the tail and lower backline, where fleas like to congregate.
  • The real sufferers are pets that become allergic to the saliva the flea injects into the skin while feeding. These animals will react every time a flea bites, even if only one flea is present. This condition is known as Flea Allergy Dermatitis (FAD).
  • But your pet may have fleas even though you can’t see them. 'Flea dirt' or flea droppings are detected more easily than the flea itself and can be seen on the skin over the rump and back - like black specks of dirt. To find them:
    • Groom your pet using a fine-toothed comb held over a white surface such as a piece of kitchen towel. Any fleas or flea droppings will be deposited on the surface.
    • Add a few drops of water and if the droppings turn reddish brown it is very likely your pet has fleas. Oh and by the way the reddish brown will be your dogs blood – yuk or what : )
Flea control

The only effective way to get rid of fleas is to remove all fleas from the dog and its environment (simultaneously to have most effect). Areas to address include:

  • Other household pets such as cats (even if they are not scratching themselves). But be sure that you treat each animal with a treatment appropriate for its species – or you might have a very expensive vet bill not to mention having poisoned your pet. For instance permethrin which is included in some dog flea treatments is poisonous to cats.
     
  • The dog themselves. There are very many options out there – a staggering amount but be careful about mixing and matching as some in combination can cause overdoses/ poisonings. Also be aware particular dogs can be sensitive to particular products and the reaction can be worse than the fleas. Options include:
    • Flea powders – generally needing to be applied once or twice a week.
    • Flea collars – can kill fleas for up to 9 months.
    • Flea shampoos – kill fleas on contact but have no residual effect.
    • Flea rinses – for use after shampoos or on their own and generally with a residual effect of up to 7 days. Options include:
      • Permoxin - can be used weekly on dogs or made into a spray for daily use. Used weekly it will also control ticks.
    • Flea sprays – rapidly kills fleas and some have insect growth regulators to prevent the laying of viable flea eggs for up to 6 to 12 weeks.
    • Spot on treatments – generally applied monthly. Some kill the fleas before eggs are laid and some include insect growth regulator to control all stages of flea life. Some options include:
      • Advantage – for eliminating adult fleas in dogs and contains micro-crystals that drop from the animal's coat into areas that they visits. These micro-crystals are like 'mine fields' that will bomb the developing flea larvae as they hatch from eggs.
      • Advantix - combines the active ingredient of Advantage to control fleas along with permethrin to repel and kill ticks, including the paralysis tick.
      • Frontline Spray - should eliminate fleas for 2 to 3 months. Apply by thoroughly rubbing into the coat with a gloved hand. Also treats ticks for approximately 1 month.
      • Frontline Plus Top Spot – used once a month. Combines a long acting adult flea killer with an insect growth regulator giving protection for at least 1 month. Also treats ticks for approximately 2 weeks.
    • Multipurpose products – some products incorporate flea treatment with treatment for heartworm and/or intestinal worm control. Options include:
      • Advocate - is a new multi-purpose product that combines the key ingredient of Advantage with an ingredient that also prevents heartworm, hookworm, roundworm, whipworm, mange and lice in dogs.
      • Revolution - controls adult fleas, prevents flea eggs from hatching, and kills flea larvae in the environment. Also controls heartworm, ear mites, sarcoptic manage, roundworm and hookworm.
    • Tablets and injections – may include insect growth regulator to sterilise flea eggs and stop them hatching. Options include:
      • Sentinel - a monthly tablet that not only controls fleas by stopping flea eggs from hatching, but also includes a heartworm preventive and an intestinal wormer for tapeworms as well as roundworms, hookworms and whipworms.
      • Capstar - kills fleas but has no residual action. Can be useful to quickly eliminate a new flea infestation before using a long term preventive.
      • Proban - given once or twice per week on a continual basis is effective against fleas and ticks.
    • You can also use a flea comb on your dog to help control an infestation.
         
  • The environment – inside the house
    • Flea bombs, foggers and mists all of which contain insect growth regulators and some of which provide up to a years worth of protection.
    • Thoroughly clean and vacuum your house, including rugs, bedding, upholstery, furniture, floors and skirting boards to help destroy fleas at each stage of their life cycle. Remember to discard any vacuum bags.
    • Wash dog bedding weekly.
        
  • The environment – the outdoors
    • Yard sprays or rinses that can be applied to specific areas including kennels and runs and many of which contain insect growth regulators.
    • Treatment should include:
      • Kennels
      • Rest areas (both those you provide and the spots the dog chooses)
      • Areas in the garden frequented by the dog – particularly if they lie there
      • Digging spots and sandpits
      • Under the house, porch or other buildings particularly where dark and moist.
    • Concentrate on shady areas, where fleas live. Options can also include the use of an insecticide, nematodes or microscopic worms that kill flea larvae.
        
  • Your car
    • If your dog travels in your car then don’t forget that you need to treat this area as well.
Alternative options
 
There are a range of alternative options available including:
  • Garlic - a natural flea preventative. A herb some people add to dogs meals several times a week - fresh or as a powder. More is not better however and it has been suggested that prolonged use can cause anaemia. There are no scientific studies backing up the effectiveness of garlic as a flea control agent. I recommend you to talk to your vet about it before using.
  • Essential oils for flea control - dilute in water and spray on coat. Total essential oils should be about 15 drops in 500 mls of water. Lavendar, citronella or cedar are meant to repel fleas but don't kill so they are not effective in an infestation.
  • Electronic flea collars - often reported as not effective.
  • Parasitic nematodes - tiny worms that eat the larvae if placed in favourite patch in the yard.
  • Pyrethryn - derived from the chyrsanthemum flower. Considered fairly safe. Is often combined with piperonyl butoxide which makes it more effective.
  • Yeast – touted but no scientific studies.
  • Vitamin B - touted but no scientific studies.
  • Lavender - sprinkle around bedding or make a lavender pillow.
  • Plant fennel, sage or wormwood near kennels and resting areas.
  • Wash bedding in hot water and rinse in cold adding 10 drops eucalyptus or lavender oil.
Some alternatives to beware of include:
  • Borax - borax and borax powders are toxic to dogs as well as fleas so are not recommended.
  • Borates – which can be effective but are toxic if inhaled or ingested.
  • Diatomaceous earth which can be irritating to breathe.
  • Rotenone - derived from derris root. This is toxic than commercially available flea products and poisonous if it enters waterways.
  • Limonene and other citrus products - natural flea repellents. But do not use on puppies and could cause poisonings particularly if used with other treatments. Speak to your vet before using.
Tips
  • Some of these products and even natural remedies are poisons and you need to read and stick with the product labels.
  • If you have young, sick, pregnant or nursing animals then speak to your vet before applying anything as animals can be more sensitive to products at this time. Some products cannot be used on puppies under a specific age (usually 3 to 4 months but check the label).
  • Many flea products for dogs are toxic to cats so check the label and/or with your vet.
  • For prevention (or more likely minimisation of risk) consider:
    • Regular grooming of your pets
    • Regular washing of pet bedding (weekly even)
    • Blocking off access to under the house during flea season or treating the area with an appropriate product.
  • Your vet will be able to recommend the best product and/or mix of products for your pet – please speak to them.
Sources:

For The Want Of A Release Cue

This weekend I checked out a local off leash dog exercise area (without my dog) and just sat under a nearby tree and watched. I watched lots of things that I could write about - both good and not so good. But the one I want to share today is about a sweet natured boxer - not a breed renowned for obedience but rather for their loving and laughable natures, a real clown who loves an audience. Well now on with the story....

Enter boxer and owner on lead. They get part way inside the park and the owner asks the dog to sit and takes off the leash. Immediately she turns to talk to a pack of other dog owners totally ignoring her poor dog, who despite all sorts of dogs rushing, milling and sniffing around remains solidly in that sit - but looking more and more stressed about it as more dogs gather. Eventually the other dogs move off as this one's obviously no fun. Then enters a family with a couple of smaller dogs. They come through the gate and try to get their dogs (besides themselves on leash) past the boxer and the mill of people talking. After a comment from the man of the family the people move aside but the boxer remains sitting - now with two dogs barking right in his face - and for his trouble gets yelled at by his own owner - 'What are you still doing there you stupid dog! Why aren't you playing! What a waste of a trip if you're not even going to have a sniff!' A huff and back on the lead the boxer goes to be dragged to the car with tail low and head down.

There are a number of things I could comment on in this story - and not least amongst them is the marvelous obedience and temperament of that poor (unappreciated) boxer. But that's not the point here. The point is that he was told to sit - and did - but he was never told that he was free to end the sit and do his own thing - and then he was even blamed for that rather than thanked. Oh if only that poor boxer had a release cue then he could have played instead of having a dreadful day at the dog park : )

All of this could be fixed by using a simple release cue. A release cue is a simple cue (often a word and/or some form of hand signal) that tells your dog that whatever behaviour he has just done for you is now over. Ask sit - then tell him when the sit ends. Ask for a down and tell him when he can get up. Tell him to stay or wait and tell him when he is free to move away and do his own thing.

Some of you may have cues like 'go play' or 'go free' or 'no more' to end a session of play or training - that's another release cue. These cues make it clear to your dog that the activity has ended. I'm sure you've all seen or experienced a puppy or dog who waits as long as they think they have to then wanders away distracted, or a jack-in-the-box sit where the bum goes down and straight back up again. Is this the dog being naughty or is it because while we all focus on being clear with our requests we are not so clear about when things end. Think about adding a release cue to your dog's vocabulary and you should see reliability increase as he becomes clearer about exactly what behaviour you want and that it will end (at your behest, not his).

I personally use the word 'ok' and a sweeping outward hand signal for my boy - but ok is not necessarily the best word as it is so common in our vocabulary.

If you want more information about to teach a release cue give a yell.